Derived from vitamin A, retinol is one of the most powerful anti-aging ingredients in cosmetics. What are its real benefits for the skin? How can it be used safely? Insights from Dr. Isabelle Gallay, dermatologist in Dijon and member of the French National Union of Dermatologists and Venereologists (SNDV).
Definition: What is retinol?
Retinol is an active ingredient derived from vitamin A and belonging to the retinoid family. Once applied to the skin, it is gradually converted into retinoic acid, its biologically active form. ” At the epidermal level, retinol acts primarily on keratinocytes by accelerating their renewal (cell division), regulating their maturation, and preventing the accumulation of dead cells ,” explains Dr. Isabelle Gallay. ” It stimulates cell renewal, promotes collagen production, and improves the overall appearance of the skin. “
We can distinguish:
- retinol , available over the counter, used in cosmetics;
- retinaldehyde , an intermediate form, closer to retinoic acid, often more effective but also more irritating and unstable in light;
- Retinoic acid , available only by medical prescription.
What are the benefits of retinol for the skin?
A meta-analysis published in 2022 in the International Journal of Women’s Dermatology indicates that ” all studies have consistently reported that topical tretinoin improves the clinical appearance of photoaging (wrinkles, mottled hyperpigmentation, yellowish complexion and lentigines) from the first month and that this effect is maintained after 24 months. “
Although these results relate to tretinoin , which is more potent than retinol, they nevertheless support the overall interest of retinoids in the management of skin aging .
It has an anti-aging effect
Retinol , and more broadly retinoids , stimulate cell renewal and promote collagen synthesis . The result: wrinkles and fine lines are reduced, the skin appears firmer, and the complexion gains radiance.
How many times a week can retinol be used on the face? Is it possible to apply it every day?
It is recommended to use retinol gradually and at a low concentration. ” It’s best to start with one application every three nights for three weeks, then move to one every other night, and if it’s well tolerated, try every night ,” advises the dermatologist. She adds, ” When signs of intolerance appear—dry, irritable skin—it’s best to stop using it and gradually resume applications after a few days. ”
Due to its exfoliating effect , retinol makes the skin more sensitive to external aggressors, particularly UV rays. It’s best to apply it in the evening and use sunscreen (such as a mineral sunscreen) in the morning.
What are the side effects of retinol? Can it cause a form of purging?
Applying retinol can cause dry skin, as well as burning or tingling sensations during the first few weeks. “At the beginning of use, a temporary worsening of acne may occur, particularly in people with acne-prone skin. This is because retinol accelerates cell turnover, which can lead to the appearance of micro-comedones more quickly,” explains the specialist. Breakouts can also indicate irritation or poor tolerance. ” If you experience any discomfort, there’s no harm in spacing out applications, or even temporarily interrupting treatment before gradually resuming it. “
