For watches, as for any other collectible, a general principle applies: what’s rare is expensive! The value of a watch can be explained by several factors, in addition to the brand name, which can of course be more or less prestigious and of higher or lower quality than others. First and foremost, of course, is the type of materials used. Stainless steel, titanium, gold, platinum, sapphire crystal, or complex and innovative composite materials alone can sometimes justify the price of a timepiece, especially if the piece is set with precious stones. Strictly speaking, all complications that add additional functions to the watch also increase the price. For example, adding a chronograph, minute repeater, striking mechanism, or tourbillon increases the technical complexity of a watch and therefore the time required by a manufacturer or watchmaker to assemble the movement. When a watch has multiple complications, its price can be significantly higher than average. The more complications a case has, the more expensive it becomes.
In addition, decorations and finishes can justify higher prices: for the ornamentation of movement parts, for the engraving of the oscillating weight, for the skeletonization of the bridges, for the type of bezel, for the bracelet. Very expensive materials or exotic leathers can significantly increase the value of a watch. The same applies to certifications such as the COSC for chronometers or the Poinçon de Genève, as well as other quality labels that guarantee the high quality of your movement or certain characteristics of your timepiece. Manufacture watches are particularly sought after because the brands produce them based on vertical integration of the production process, thus guaranteeing the integrity of their watches. The know-how of these mostly Swiss companies has built the reputation of Swiss watchmaking. The “Swiss Made” label, for example, which indicates that a timepiece was made in Switzerland, is a guarantee of quality recognized by the industry and customers worldwide.
Furthermore, the value of a watch often depends on the type of movement. A traditional mechanical movement from a renowned manufacturer, for example, will fetch a higher price than a quartz movement from a lesser-known brand. Another key differentiator when classifying timepieces by value is the number of pieces produced. For limited, numbered, or signed series, the price increases. The same applies to a collectible watch worn by a famous person, royal family, or celebrity. The price depends on the characteristics of such a famous person and the history associated with them.
By breaking the codes that normally determine the value of watches, some highly innovative timepieces, sometimes from young but highly inventive brands, manage to outsmart traditional pricing criteria and offer dream watches at unimaginable prices.
*In watchmaking, a complication is a function that provides additional information beyond the hours and minutes.
